In Nosara, it doesn’t take long to understand why people come here. The roads are bumpy, the Pacific is warm, and Playa Guiones is one of Costa Rica’s most reliable surf spots.
Much of life here is agreeably imperfect. Esh Hotel & Spa, just a few minutes from the beach, looks as though someone briefly decided to put a stop to the usual disorder. Twenty-nine rooms, plenty of concrete, dark wood, water and, in between, a surprising amount of greenery.
Esh sits on a hillside in Huacas, surrounded by trees and crossed by a natural stream. There is no classic ocean view, but there is a great deal more to discover in the design. Architecture studio FAMM Arquitectura found a different solution: rather than placing the landscape in front of the hotel, it brought it right inside. Courtyards, staircases, terraces and shaded pathways lead from one area to the next. The real view is the journey through it all.
Architecture and rooms
The rooms, designed under the interior direction of Sulkin Askenazi, follow the same principle. The architecture is pared back, the materials robust: exposed concrete, wood and glass. Custom-made furniture by local craftspeople sits alongside works by Costa Rican painter Mael Victory and textiles from across Latin America. Some bathrooms open outwards; certain suites have a terrace or private garden, while the villas come with their own pool or a bathtub beneath the open sky. There are no televisions. Wi-Fi is available, should you really need it.
Life in Nosara
Days at Esh start early. With yoga, a plunge into cold water or a trip to the beach. Playa Guiones and Playa Pelada are close by, and Nosara is known for its surf and yoga scene and a way of life aptly summed up by pura vida — provided the phrase stays off the T-shirts. The Vitalis Spa offers, among other things, a sauna, ice bath, yoga, Pilates and sound baths.
Dining takes place at Almar, where locally caught fish and regional produce meet a cuisine best described as “Pacific Soul Kitchen”, inspired by the principles of Nosara’s Blue Zone. Breakfast is served until eleven, followed by lunch and dinner. Drinks are the domain of Ember & Ash Bar, whose name already hints at the source of its inspiration.
SMART DEAL – ESH Hotel & Spa
399,00 EUR
This voucher is valid for 1 night (2 guests) incl. breakfast and taxes in all rooms/suites.
Blue Zones and responsibility
Nosara is one of the five so-called Blue Zones, regions where longevity is associated with diet, physical activity and social connections. Esh takes the subject seriously without turning itself into a health camp. The hotel works with organisations including Costas Verdes on reforestation projects along the coast and in the jungle. Guests can even take part in planting a tree themselves.
Fire as a ritual
Esh means fire in Hebrew. In the open-plan lobby, a fire pit invites guests, on arrival, to write down a personal intention on a piece of paper and cast it into the flames. It is worth doing. And by the time the jungle grows darker outside and a cicada somewhere begins its nightly performance, you will be rather glad someone came up with the idea of the fire.
You come here for the Pacific, stay for the jungle and eventually realise that the finest luxury in Nosara is not a suite with a private pool. It is a day with absolutely no reason to check the time.
ESH Hotel & Spa is a member of Lifestylehotels
