By November, winter coats are coming out across Northern Italy. Yet in one particular valley in Trentino, there is still plenty to discover: vineyards, old wine cellars, medieval villages and Christmas markets that need no specially built scenery. The Valle dei Laghi has a few surprises waiting even at this time of year.
Between Lake Garda and the Dolomites lies the Valle dei Laghi, where Alpine and Mediterranean influences meet. Thanks to the milder air coming from Lake Garda, late autumn can feel surprisingly pleasant here, especially compared with what we might expect in the mountains of Northern Italy. And among the lakes and vineyards, one local tradition is still very much underway in November.
The Harvest Is Only the Beginning
One of the Valle dei Laghi’s local treasures is Nosiola, a white grape variety whose name comes from the Italian nocciola, meaning hazelnut, a reference to its delicate nutty notes. It is also the grape used to produce the celebrated Vino Santo Trentino.
But the work doesn’t end with the harvest. Selected bunches of grapes are laid out on wooden racks and left to dry for several months. The Ora, a wind blowing from Lake Garda, helps the process along. Traditionally, the grapes are not pressed until around Easter.
So when we visit the region’s wineries in November, somewhere nearby a wine is already in the making that won’t be ready for pressing for several more months. And while we’re here, there’s every reason to try a glass of local Nosiola too.
Apples in the Morning, Sauna in the Evening A lovely base for exploring the valley is La Dolce Mela in Ciago. The apple in its name is no coincidence: the property even produces juice from its own apples.
Mornings begin with fresh bread, homemade cakes, artisan jams, seasonal fruit and cheeses from the region. After a breakfast featuring organic ingredients, we can head out to the lakes, visit local wineries or wander through the surrounding villages.
And once we’ve had our fill of exploring, there’s another part of the day to look forward to. At La Dolce Mela, guests can enjoy massages, while some rooms come with their own private sauna and whirlpool. After a long day out in November, that sounds rather tempting.
A Christmas Market in an Old Wine Cellar?
In Rango, the Christmas market isn’t simply set up in the village square. The vaulted passageways, old courtyards and cellars of the medieval houses also fill with artisans, regional products and visitors.
Something similar happens in Canale di Tenno, where narrow streets and historic buildings become the setting for the Christmas market. There’s no need to recreate a traditional Christmas village here. The houses have been standing for centuries.
And that’s what makes it so special. We suddenly get to peek inside places we might otherwise have walked straight past.
The grapes are still waiting for spring, the villages are already preparing for Christmas. And we arrive somewhere in between. Perhaps that’s the best time of all.
