Poetic rebellion in contemporary light
With its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Ann Demeulemeester enters a new chapter. Under the creative direction of Stefano Gallici, the house remains faithful to its iconic dark romanticism while opening up to a brighter, sun-washed sensibility. SS26 unfolds between shadow and light, melancholy and freedom — a refined dialogue between legacy and the present.
The Essence of the Collection
Ann Demeulemeester has always stood for more than clothing — it is attitude, poetry, resistance. This spirit resonates clearly in SS26. Sharp tailoring, elongated coats, fluid shirts and slim silhouettes remain central, yet Gallici gently expands the vocabulary through soft greys, washed whites and organic hues, introducing a new sense of ease.
Sheer fabrics, delicate crochet and fragile feather details soften the severity, adding vulnerability and intimacy. Leather transforms from armour into a second skin — fluid, tactile, alive.
Inspiration: Freedom, Music and Movement
Rather than referencing fashion history, SS26 draws from music, poetry and the free-spirited energy of the American West Coast. These influences appear emotionally rather than literally: in open collars, relaxed layering and silhouettes that allow space — for the body, for movement, for individuality.
Fashion as a state of being, not a costume.
A Paris Runway Moment
The collection was unveiled during Paris Fashion Week in an intentionally restrained setting. The presentation felt intimate and focused, drawing attention to textures, proportions and subtle details. SS26’s power lies in its quiet intensity.
This Collection Matters
Spring/Summer 2026 demonstrates how a house with a strong identity can evolve without losing its soul. Stefano Gallici does not imitate Ann Demeulemeester’s legacy — he extends it. The result is a collection that feels contemporary, sensitive and quietly radical, standing in deliberate contrast to fast, overstimulated fashion.
Ann Demeulemeester remains a voice for individuality, poetry and conscious style.
SS26 is an invitation to slow down and reflect — on fashion, identity and freedom. Dark yet luminous, romantic yet raw, familiar yet new. A collection for those who do not merely wear fashion, but live it.
